The face of a young girl, captured in a delicate wooden frame, held an expression impossible to decipher. Was she happy, sad, or simply lost? For Sue Yeap, this illustration by Takaki Sugawara became an unexpected emotional anchor during a whirlwind family trip to Japan. After five frantic days exploring Osaka and Tokyo with her children, their departure left her alone, facing the daunting task of navigating Tokyo's train system solo, tears prompted by the poignant art piece.
A Spacious Home Base in the Heart of Tokyo
Finding accommodation for a family of four in Tokyo's famously compact hotels is a common headache for travellers. Many standard rooms are a mere 15 square metres, struggling to fit two adults and two children comfortably. This was a frequent lament on the 'Japlanning' forums Sue consulted before her trip.
The solution was the Mimaru Suites Tokyo Nihonbashi, part of a chain with 27 locations across Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto. Chosen for its proximity to train stations and convenience stores, their apartment was a revelation. Their two-bedroom suite slept up to six and offered a generous 40 to 100 square metres of space, featuring a full kitchen, dining area, washer-dryer, and two bathrooms—one with a deep freestanding bath.
The apartment's distinguishing feature was its curated selection of art and pottery, designed to make guests feel at home. Sue borrowed pieces like a boy with an owl on his head and decorative gold plates, but it was the small girl in a kimono that resonated deeply. While the apartment was pristine, it notably lacked drawer storage—a cultural quirk explained by Mimaru's high cleaning standards, where Japanese guests often simply place clothes on the floor.
The hotel's lobby cafe, Passage, run by 2014 World AeroPress champion Shuichi Sasaki, served excellent specialty coffee. An activity corner offered mask painting and origami, adding to the family-friendly atmosphere.
Solo Adventures and Serendipitous Kindness
With her children en route back to Perth, Sue embarked on her first solo expedition. A direct train from the nearby station took her to the bustling Tsukiji Outer Market. Overwhelmed by sashimi options, she asked a candy vendor for a recommendation. In a characteristic act of Japanese kindness, he left his stall to personally escort her down an alley to his preferred restaurant.
The lunch set, featuring 10 pieces of sashimi for around $35, was reportedly from a TV-featured venue, though its English name remained a mystery. The journey back tested her navigation skills; after getting lost between platforms, a station attendant provided a card to show at the gate, guiding her safely to the correct exit.
That evening, she successfully rode the driverless Yurikamome line, enjoying dazzling elevated views of Tokyo Bay and skyscrapers, returning to the hotel in time for a complimentary sake tasting.
Exploring Nihonbashi and a Cherished Souvenir
The Nihonbashi area, the historic downtown centre of Edo-Tokyo named for a 1600s bridge, offered a quiet mix of businesses, fabric shops, and intriguing dining spots like the 'Meat Bank'. A short walk led to the Koami Shrine, where locals have sought financial blessings since 1466. Following other visitors' lead, Sue washed money for luck and purchased amulets.
After days of convenience store onigiri, she discovered freshly made rice balls at Taro Tokyo Onigiri, opting for a flavour-packed cod and miso variety. A visit to Ginza's flagship Muji store for stationery and socks capped off the final morning.
At checkout, Sue prepared to return the borrowed art. However, the staff, sensing her deep connection to the illustration of the little girl—and after unsuccessful attempts to purchase one online—had a surprise. They had bubble-wrapped the framed picture as a gift for her to take home to Australia.
Now watching over her in Perth, the artwork serves as a perfect memento of a Tokyo journey where every day involved getting a little lost, but ultimately finding much more: space, kindness, and a lasting piece of the city's soul.
Fact File: Rates at Mimaru properties start from approximately $500, varying by location, room size, and season. Sue Yeap was a guest of Mimaru Suites Tokyo Nihonbashi, which did not influence or preview the story.
