After a whirlwind self-drive tour covering over 3000 kilometres across New Zealand's South Island, my husband and I craved a few days of pure relaxation to cap off our journey. We found the perfect sanctuary in Hanmer Springs, an alpine spa village nestled in the Canterbury region, approximately a 90-minute drive northwest of Christchurch.
A Village Built on Warmth and Wellness
This picturesque village, encircled by lush forests and majestic mountains, is renowned for its natural thermal springs. The Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa complex is the heart of the area, featuring 22 open-air thermal pools, along with saunas, steam rooms, and six private thermal pools for a more intimate experience.
Diverse Thermal Experiences
The thermal offerings cater to various preferences and therapeutic needs. Aqua therapy pools, maintained at a soothing 32 to 34 degrees Celsius, are equipped with jets, spouts, and waterfalls designed to alleviate aches and pains. For a gentler soak, the rainbow and rock pools, with temperatures ranging from 34 to 38 degrees, feature gentle rapids and waterways.
The peaceful cascade pools, set among boulder terraces and native gardens, offer warmer waters between 37 and 42 degrees. Hexagonal pools provide a unique geometric setting at 38 to 40 degrees, while the sulphur pools, clad in volcanic rock and filled with completely natural geothermal water, deliver a toasty 40 to 42 degrees. It is remarkably easy to lose several hours wallowing in these warm, healing waters. For those seeking further pampering, a neighbouring spa offers a multitude of treatments.
Activities Beyond Relaxation
If relaxation isn't your primary goal, the facility also includes a heated freshwater lap pool for fitness enthusiasts and a vibrant family zone. This area boasts waterslides, including the Conical Thrill—a 13.5-metre ride that propels sliders up a vertical ramp, celebrated as the largest aquatic ride in New Zealand—alongside a gentler aqua play area for younger visitors.
Uncovering the Layers of History
I always delve into the history of any place I visit, and Hanmer Springs offers a rich tapestry of stories. The Maori legend of the springs is particularly captivating. It tells of the legendary warrior Tamatea, who appealed to the chief of the North Island volcanoes to save his group from freezing during their travels through the South Island. According to legend, Ariki sent flames across to Nelson, but a spark landed in Hanmer Springs, creating the hot springs. This site is known as Te Whakatataka O Te Ngarehu O Ahi Tamatea, meaning "where the ashes of Tamatea's fire lay."
Travelling Maori were the first to discover these thermal springs, using the alpine location as a stopover on journeys east to west in search of pounamu (greenstone), as well as for those heading north.
The European Chapter
The European narrative of the springs' "discovery" is less colourful but equally significant. In the late 1850s, European settlers stumbled upon the springs. Hanmer Springs was named after Thomas Hanmer, a European pioneer who was exploring the area for farming land. The first infrastructure emerged with a dressing shed built next to the pools in 1871, followed by the first bath house in 1883. By 1887, the government had constructed a sanitorium, highlighting the early recognition of the springs' therapeutic value.
The Legacy of Queen Mary Hospital
Adjacent to the springs lies the now-abandoned Queen Mary Hospital, a site steeped in history and well worth exploring. Originally opened in 1916 to treat soldiers returning from World War I, the hospital was designed to maximise sunshine and fresh air in the Soldiers' Block, aiding recovery from the horrors of war, shell shock, and war-induced neuroses. By Easter 1917, nearly 100 men were housed there.
In 1926, a separate women's hospital opened on the site to treat those suffering from "functional nervous disorders." The 1940s saw the introduction of an alcoholism treatment program, followed by drug addiction and youth programs in the 1970s. Although the facility closed in 2003, the deserted, peaceful buildings remain as a poignant reminder of the past, including the original morgue. Notably, the Soldiers' Block has been restored and reopened as a community hall on Anzac Day 2025.
Adventure in the Great Outdoors
Hanmer Springs extends far beyond its thermal springs, offering a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. The area is a delight for walkers and mountain bikers, with over 70 kilometres of bike trails graded from beginner to expert. In winter, it becomes a hub for skiers. For thrill-seekers, options include jet boating along the Waiau River through dramatic gorges, bungy jumping at the historic 135-year-old Ferry Bridge, rafting through rapids, or quad biking across spectacular scenery.
Forest Walks for Every Level
As our visit was centred on relaxation, we opted for a few forest walks, which provided the perfect balance of activity and tranquillity. The Conical Hill walk, which winds through forests and ascends the hill overlooking the village's main street, can be steep at times but rewards with fabulous views, even on a dreary November day. The longer Waterfall Track is a winding and steep trek that culminates at the base of the 41-metre Dog Stream Waterfall.
For a more family-friendly option, the Forest Amble takes visitors past numerous sculptures of animals and forest creatures, carved from a giant redwood tree that once stood in the village. During our visit, parts of this walk were closed due to falling trees, but it remains a charming route for all ages.
A Perfect Retreat
Hanmer Springs proved to be an exceptionally pleasant way to spend a couple of days, immersing ourselves in the fresh alpine air and basking in the soothing, thermal waters. Whether you seek relaxation, historical exploration, or outdoor adventure, this alpine spa village offers a multifaceted escape that rejuvenates both body and spirit.
