When you think of Zurich, images of global finance, luxury shopping, and punctual bankers likely spring to mind. While that polished facade certainly exists, Switzerland's largest city holds a far more diverse and intriguing character, especially in its western reaches where village life and nature thrive.
Vineyards and Village Vibes in Hongg
A short journey from the central station reveals a different Zurich. In the west, districts like Hongg, which was absorbed into the city in 1934, retain a distinctly village-like atmosphere. Here, colourful old houses and modern low-rise apartments cluster around a picturesque church with a red spire, backed by rolling green peaks.
On a summer afternoon, the slopes above the Limmat River are alive with walkers trekking up to favourites like Kaferberg (571m). These are the vineyards of Hongg, where viticulture has roots stretching back to at least the 15th century. From the churchyard, you can gaze over flourishing grapes towards the distant city skyline—a striking blend of urban and rural.
An Island Escape on the Limmat
The journey from the Mercure Zurich City hotel in Altstetten to Hongg follows the brisk-flowing Limmat River and is dotted with distractions. A key highlight is the 550m-long Werdinsel island, a nature reserve and leisure haven connected by footbridges.
On a midsummer day, the island's east end, known as Flussbad Au-Hongg, buzzes with life. This is one of Zurich's designated open-air public summer pools, where swimmers brave the channel's current for a refreshing breaststroke or crawl. Locals picnic under oak trees, families enjoy snacks from a kiosk, and some simply read paperbacks on the grassy banks as herons fly past.
The river shows its fiercer side near the island's south end, thundering past a power plant with formidable force—a reminder of its historical role powering gunpowder and flax spinning mills.
Adventure and Access in Zurich's West
This exploration of Zurich's wilder side can be a perfect start to a broader Swiss adventure. The author experienced it as the beginning of a nine-day "Best of Switzerland" tour with Globus, which runs from May to October and costs from $5649 per person.
For the independent traveller, the area is easily accessible. Altstetten is just a five-minute train ride from Zurich Hauptbahnhof, and the walk to Hongg along the river is a scenic half-hour. The Mercure Zurich City, with its distinctive triple towers, offers rooms from around $224 a night.
From daredevils taking selfies on the precarious Hongg Weir to hikers conquering vineyard-covered hills, Zurich's west presents a compelling, relaxed counterpoint to its famous financial heart. It's a reminder that even in one of the world's most orderly cities, there's always room for a little wildness.
