Stepping into Vice on a Saturday evening is an experience designed to thrill. Tucked away in Canberra's Odgers Lane, the entrance via a shadowy alleyway sets the tone for what promises to be a night of indulgent, slightly sinful dining. The venue, owned by the Lala Group and a neighbour to the popular Molly, fully embraces a modern New York speakeasy aesthetic that is both compelling and intentionally provocative.
An Atmosphere of Indulgence, With Minor Distractions
The interior of Vice is a carefully curated vision of dark seduction. From the wooden lectern where guests are greeted to the plush leather bar chairs, the space mixes dark blue panelling with raw timber. Playful, cheeky artwork featuring nuns adds a wink of irreverence, completing the vibe of secret pleasures. The overall effect is undeniably sexy and immersive.
However, the spell is occasionally broken by a few jarring details. Tables covered in utilitarian butcher's paper, plastic barbecue clips, and visible white extension cords running along the ceiling beams remind you that you're still in a restaurant, not a flawless film set. For a venue aiming to personify culinary seduction, these small oversights can momentarily pull you out of the experience.
A Menu Built for Carnivorous Celebration
The culinary journey begins with drinks that match the mood. A classic French martini offers sweet, jammy notes, while a spice-forward Amelia Park cabernet merlot stands ready for the main event. The menu leaves little doubt about the star: steak is the unequivocal focus, with a cheeseburger listed as the only other main.
The service embraces theatre. Before you've even considered starters, your waiter inquires about the steak, noting each takes 40 minutes to cook and is sold by the gram, with 400 to 500 grams recommended per person. The drama continues as a magnificent raw rib-eye is presented at the table for approval before being whisked away to the kitchen, a price-by-weight label left in its place.
Starters and Mains: Hits and Near Misses
To begin, the potato galette with beef tenderloin tartare ($14 each) is a textural triumph. Crisp, layered potato cubes are topped with a ball of melt-in-your-mouth tenderloin, perfectly seasoned with mustard and onion.
The true standout, however, is the toasted bone marrow with agrodolce and focaccia ($18 each). The rich, gelatinous marrow, paired with a sweet-and-sour Italian sauce and spread on crisp focaccia, is a decadent highlight that lingers in the memory.
For the main act, the rib-eye steak ($19 per 100 grams) arrives perfectly cooked to a mandatory medium-rare, as per the restaurant's policy. The reverse-seared and chargrilled cut is tender and beautifully marbled, designed to highlight the natural flavour of the beef. On this visit, however, the seasoning was overly assertive, with sea salt flakes applied too heavily. A side of brandy jus ($7) was sweet but slightly too runny, lacking ideal viscosity.
Sides presented a mixed bag. The cauliflower ($14) in a raclette mornay with focaccia crumb was flavourful, though a golden cheese topping could have elevated it further. The waiter-recommended duck fat roasted chat potatoes ($16) looked impeccable—crisp exterior, fluffy interior—but sadly lacked the promised punch of rosemary and umami butter.
The Final Verdict on Vice
Dessert, a vanilla bean flan ($16), continued the theme of theatrical service with a tableside sprinkle of smoked salt and a spray of Irish whiskey. Yet, it also echoed the inconsistency of the evening. Half the slice was silky and perfectly balanced; the other half was overdone and unpleasantly eggy.
This dessert encapsulates the Vice experience. When it's good, it's exceptional—the bone marrow, the steak cooking technique, the immersive ambience, and the generally great service. When it misses, the flaws are noticeable, though largely fixable: heavy-handed seasoning, under-seasoned sides, and occasional lapses in finesse.
The premise is fabulous, and the foundation for a top-tier Canberra dining destination is firmly in place. With a few refined tweaks and perhaps a touch more variety on the concise menu, Vice has the clear potential to become a must-visit location. It brings something special and decidedly adult to the capital's food scene, even if it hasn't yet achieved perfection.
Vice Restaurant Details: Located at Odgers Lane, Canberra ACT 2601. Open Tuesday to Saturday, 12pm to 11pm. Phone: 6113 9058. Website: vice.restaurant. The venue is accessible, but the menu offers no non-beef main meal option. Noise levels are not a problem.
