It's a well-worn piece of travel advice: be wary of restaurants with a view. The logic suggests a spectacular vista can allow a kitchen to become complacent and prices to inflate, leaving diners with a mediocre meal for a premium price. However, nestled on the north-eastern shore of Canberra's Lake Burley Griffin, The Boat House restaurant proves to be the glorious exception to this rule.
A Legacy of Lakeside Hospitality
With more than three decades of operation, The Boat House is no fleeting culinary trend. While the panoramic views across Lake Burley Griffin are undeniably wonderful, they serve as a majestic backdrop rather than the lazy centrepiece of the experience. The real stars are the combination of refined service, a conservative yet confident menu, and impeccable ingredients.
On a recent Saturday lunch, the welcome was immediate and assured, setting a tone of polished hospitality. Seated in the dining room, the view of the lake was all-encompassing, even from a central table. The choice was the three-course lunch menu, priced at $92 per person, offering about four options per course alongside a well-appointed wine list featuring local, national, and international labels.
Subtle Starters and Substantial Mains
The meal commenced with a delicate sesame-crusted swordfish, accompanied by kohlrabi, togarashi seasoning, and avocado puree. The dish was a study in subtlety, with the accompaniments designed to draw out the fish's flavour. In contrast, the prawn cavatelli was a bold, texture-forward entree, featuring muscular pasta shells, salty native karkalla, and delicate crab in a rich bisque.
For the main, the white Pyrenees lamb rump from central west Victoria was a standout. Served with Dutch carrots, cauliflower, and a rosemary jus, it delivered the hearty satisfaction of a classic roast with precise execution. The mild, almost sweet flavour of the lamb shone through, remaining tender. Across the table, the Humpty Doo barramundi Rockefeller offered a richer, creamier alternative. The fish's forward flavour was beautifully calmed by a beurre blanc sauce, creating a harmonious balance of freshness and decadent richness.
Decadent Finishes and Impeccable Service
Dessert saw a rich dark chocolate delice with crème fraiche and blackberry, perfectly sized for a post-lunch indulgence. The more playful option was the potato doughnut—actually a serving of several small doughnuts—which became delightful vehicles for the accompanying coffee caramel ice cream, wattle seeds, and anise sugar.
Throughout, the service was noted as impeccable. In a display of exceptional professionalism, the staff proactively addressed a slight delay in mains by offering a complimentary round of drinks, a gesture that underscored their attentive and caring approach to all guests.
Under the guidance of executive chef John Leverink and director James Souter, with restaurant manager Steph Calver and head chef Jack Gould, The Boat House cultivates a deliberately conservative ethos. This is conservation in the best sense: preserving the core tenets of classic hospitality. The menu avoids experimental gimmicks, favouring time-honoured techniques applied to excellent produce. White tablecloths and refined, trained staff complete the picture of timeless dining.
In a fickle industry, the restaurant's longevity is a testament to its powerful, fad-resisting strategy. It offers a seriously good dining experience where the magnificent view is simply the cherry on top. The Boat House is open for dinner Thursday to Saturday and for lunch Friday to Sunday at Grevillea Park, Barton.
