"Morning!" a woman chirps, her broad Dublin accent as rich as the heather lining the path where we cross. High above, clouds scud across a bright sky, while below, the Irish Sea glitters under the early sun. This is the stunning reality of a coastal walk just a stone's throw from Dublin's city centre, a gem many international visitors overlook.
The Dublin Coastal Trail: City Meets Wild Shoreline
Ireland's famous coastline stretches for roughly 7500 kilometres, but you don't need to trek to its remote western edges for a taste. The Dublin Coastal Trail aims to spotlight the accessible nautical wonders between the historic port of Skerries, 30km north of the city, and the southern suburb of Killiney, 17km south of the River Liffey. Much of this trail is easily reached via Dublin's public buses or the DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) train line.
Exploring Howth: History, Trails, and Fresh Sea Air
A short DART ride north delivers you to Howth, a prosperous and picturesque suburb. Stepping from the quaint yellow station, the air is immediately salted with briny sea smells and the cries of gulls. Beside the station sits The Bloody Stream pub, its name recalling the 1177 Anglo-Norman invasion where battle bloodied the waters. Next door, the quirky Dog House boasts a fake shark protruding from its wall, adding a dash of playful character.
Pronounced "Hooth," this Norse-named headland rises 171 metres above Dublin Bay's northern tip. It remains a working fishing port, with the day's catch sold at harbour stalls and served in local chippies. Howth Head is also famously where Leopold Bloom proposed to Molly in James Joyce's Ulysses.
The 7.8km Howth Cliff Path Loop begins and ends at the DART station. Sturdy footwear is advised, as the trail can be rugged and puddled after rain, creating a feeling of splendid isolation despite the city's proximity. You'll rarely walk alone for long, passing cheerful Dubliners and tourists alike.
Castles, Lighthouses, and Ancient Graves
Signs point the way to Howth Castle, part of a vast 191-hectare estate with golf, a deer park, and a rhododendron garden. The castle, owned by the St Lawrence family for over 800 years, offers cookery classes and tours. On its grounds lies Aideen's Grave, a portal tomb dating back to around 2500BC.
Further along the headland's south-east corner stands the Baily Lighthouse, built in the early 1800s. Looking back towards Dublin, you might spot the Eire 6 sign, one of 83 whitewashed stone markers placed during World War II to signal Ireland's neutrality to aircraft. Offshore, Ireland's Eye island beckons, a 15-minute boat trip away, hosting monastic ruins and protected seabird colonies.
Back in Howth's charming centre, independent cafes like Off Grid Coffee on St Lawrence Road offer a perfect caffeine stop amidst local art. It's the ideal end to a walk that proves Dublin's dramatic coastline is not just a local secret, but an essential experience for every visitor.
Steve McKenna was a guest of Tourism Ireland. They have not influenced this story.
Fact File:
- For more on the Dublin Coastal Trail, see visitdublin.com
- To plan a trip to Ireland, see ireland.com
