Discover Paris's Oldest Food Market: A Taste of History in Le Marais
Exploring Paris's Historic Marche des Enfants Rouges

Paris rewards those who explore on foot, with its stunning architecture and iconic sights around every corner. As Europe's most densely populated capital, you're never far from a delightful place to eat, drink or shop. Some streets offer a perfect blend of picturesque charm and abundant retail and dining opportunities.

The Historic Heart of Le Marais

Today, we're wandering through Le Marais, a district on the Right Bank of the Seine. Unlike much of Paris, which was dramatically reshaped by wide boulevards and grand apartment blocks in the 19th century, Le Marais has retained its medieval street layout. This results in narrower lanes and buildings that are generally older, lower and full of quaint character.

Some private mansions, known as hotels particuliers, date back to the 17th century when this was the fashionable quarter for aristocrats. Stretching from the river to the Place de la Republique, it's a superb area for a stroll. One of its most lively and fascinating spots is centred around the Marche des Enfants Rouges.

A Feast for the Senses at Paris's Oldest Market

First opened in 1615 and touted as Paris's oldest covered market, it gets its unique name – Market of the Red Children – from a local orphanage where children wore red clothing. Unlike some of Paris's more grandiose markets, the Marche des Enfants Rouges has an unassuming facade on Rue de Bretagne and Rue Charlot, making it easy to miss. The surrounding streets buzz with the chatter from cafe and bistro terraces on a summer afternoon.

Step inside, and you're enveloped in sizzling aromas and a hive of conversation. The market is bustling, but you can often find a spare bench or stool near the vendors. They specialise in a world of flavours:

  • French classics
  • Middle Eastern dishes
  • Caribantine cuisine
  • Italian fare
  • Asian specialties

Visitors of all ages can be seen enjoying everything from oysters and seafood platters to rotisserie chicken, crepes, couscous, tagines, ramen and bento boxes.

Beyond the Market: Exploring Le Marais

On a fine day, you might gather picnic supplies from the market's fresh bread, French cheeses, charcuterie, jams, fruits, vegetables and flowers. A lovely nearby spot is Square du Temple, a garden square next to the Le Carreau du Temple events hub. Alternatively, a 15-minute walk leads to the Place des Vosges, Paris's oldest planned square, perfect for relaxing on the grass.

The market, open daily except Mondays, is just one highlight in the Marais, which covers much of Paris's 3rd arrondissement. A seven-minute walk away is the Musee Picasso, housing works by the legendary artist and modern exhibitions. For free entry, the excellent Musee Carnavalet traces Paris's evolution through exhibits in two Renaissance mansions.

Guided walking or cycling tours of the Marais often include rue des Rosiers, the heart of the historic Jewish quarter, where kosher delis and restaurants thrive, tempting passers-by with falafel and other delicious dishes. The area is also known for its offbeat street art, including the pixelated mosaics by Invader, one of Paris's top street artists, depicting pop-culture figures from 1980s movies and video games.

For those planning a trip, further information can be found at parisjetaime.com and france.fr.