Walking through the historic streets of George Town, Penang's UNESCO World Heritage-listed capital, reveals a familiar story. Gentrification has ushered in a wave of cafes, many offering a strikingly similar experience of exposed brick and hanging bulbs. It's a formula that began with venues like Chinahouse back in 2011 and has since become pervasive, leaving little room for originality in Malaysia's vibrant food scene.
A Fresh Concept in a Familiar Setting
Amidst this sea of sameness on Campbell Street—once famed for its Chinese goldsmiths—stands Keju. From the outside, it fits the mould: a ground-floor shop in a classic two-storey Sino-Portuguese shophouse. But venture inside, and the concept takes a delicious turn. Keju, which means "cheese" in Malay, is a dedicated bakery that has pivoted to a singular, creamy focus. Opened on December 25, it operates from 10am to 8pm, offering a welcome departure from the standard hipster cafe.
The setup is simple and functional. A bakery counter lines the left wall, with just three small tables to the right. This isn't a place for sprawling brunches; it's designed for quick orders or an intimate, quiet date. The star of the show is unmistakably the mini cheesecake, each a petite delight that fits neatly in your palm.
Sweet Discoveries: From Burnt Basque to Seaweed
Keju offers a rotating selection of about eight flavours, each priced at a very accessible RM 6.50 (approximately $2.40). The journey begins with the original burnt cheesecake. It presents a sturdy, darkly caramelised crust that gives way to an impossibly soft, buttery heart—a rich and addictive experience for any sweet tooth.
For those seeking adventure, the flavour lineup doesn't disappoint. The matcha version is intensely pungent, dominating the creamy base. A standout is the inventive dashi honey cheesecake, which balances buttery freshness with the umami hint of Japanese dashi powder. For the truly adventurous, Keju even crafts a surprisingly delicious seaweed cheesecake.
Beyond the cakes, Keju specialises in cream cheese served in 100g tubs, resembling a dense, spreadable cheese ice cream. The Lotus Biscoff flavour is amplified with gula melaka (palm sugar), creating a compact cream that melts slowly on the tongue. The gula melaka and coconut variant is intensely, seductively sweet, with a layer of pure sugar at the bottom—a treat best approached with caution. For a fresher option, the strawberry cream cheese offers a yoghurt-like tang.
The Perfect Pairing: Coffee That Doesn't Disappoint
Such decadent desserts demand a proper coffee, something that can be hit-or-miss in Penang. Keju proudly serves Indonesian beans, and the difference is palpable. A simple long black ordered here is robust and flavourful, tasting distinctly of coffee beans rather than watered-down filler. Barista Daniel, formerly of Black Kettle, ensures a brew that truly complements the sweet offerings.
Keju represents a clever and successful niche in George Town's crowded culinary landscape. It proves that innovation can thrive within the city's iconic shophouses, moving beyond aesthetic trends to deliver genuine substance—and a lot of cheese. It's a destination for those seeking an inventive twist on dessert, where every bite oozes quality and the coffee leaves a lasting, aromatic memory.
