Just three hours after departing British airspace, an unexpected message pops up on my phone following our plane's touchdown: "Welcome to Ireland." The confusion is understandable - we've landed on a lush, green Atlantic island, but this is no Emerald Isle.
The Thrill of Landing at Madeira's Famous Airport
As passengers begin disembarking, my phone beeps again with a more accurate greeting: "Welcome to Portugal." Yet even this doesn't fully capture our location. We've arrived in Madeira, a subtropical volcanic archipelago that operates as an autonomous Portuguese region situated 500 kilometres off north-west Africa - actually closer to Casablanca than Lisbon.
The immigration experience immediately sets this destination apart. Unlike many international airports where stern-faced officials scrutinise travellers, the passport control officer here welcomes us with a genuine smile and asks in fluent English: "So, how was the landing?"
It's a perfectly reasonable question at this particular airport, which carries the name of Madeira's most famous son, footballer Cristiano Ronaldo. The airport is renowned worldwide for being one of the most exciting - or terrifying - places to land, depending on your perspective.
The runway presents a dramatic spectacle, suspended on concrete pillars above the Atlantic Ocean with forested mountains providing a stunning backdrop. Regular strong winds test pilots' technical skills and nerve, often sending passengers' heart rates soaring. While YouTube hosts plenty of videos showcasing bumpy landings, most approaches are surprisingly smooth, including our own tranquil arrival.
Exploring Funchal and Madeira's Natural Beauty
As sunset paints the ocean in golden hues, we travel by bus to Funchal, Madeira's capital, just 30 minutes from the airport. The hillsides surrounding the city sparkle with thousands of lights from apartment buildings climbing the steep slopes.
The following morning finds us exploring those very hills at the Madeira Botanical Garden, gazing down at Funchal with the Atlantic shimmering beyond. During our week-long stay, we discover numerous aspects to love about this island paradise: seafood lunches enjoyed on the cobblestone streets of Funchal's Old Town, leisurely oceanfront walks after meals, mountain hikes, and cliff-top trails reaching almost 600 metres above the Atlantic.
One consistently enchanting feature is Madeira's luxuriant natural beauty. While experts debate exactly how many microclimates the island hosts - estimates range from four to twenty-two - the overall climate remains mild to steamy year-round. Even in midwinter, temperatures typically stay above 15 degrees Celsius, warmed by ocean currents, while summer rarely exceeds 30 degrees thanks to cooling breezes reminiscent of Fremantle's famous Doctor.
The Botanical Garden: A Horticultural Wonderland
As the largest island in its archipelago, Madeira experiences more rainfall in the north than the south, but an elaborate network of irrigation channels called levadas ensures fresh water reaches every agricultural terrace and corner of the island.
Visiting during the northern winter proves ideal - while Europe shivers, Funchal enjoys daytime temperatures around 20 degrees Celsius with plenty of sunshine interspersed with occasional showers. These conditions create perfect growing environments for Madeira's horticulturists, who cultivate native plants alongside species from across the globe.
The Madeira Botanical Garden presents an especially beguiling attraction, perched 150 to 300 metres above Funchal. This eight-hectare sanctuary hosts more than 2,000 plant species from diverse locations including Japan, Madagascar, Queensland and New South Wales. Some plants flank sloping pathways, lawns and ponds, while others form intricate topiary displays and ornamental patterned beds.
Wandering through the gardens, we encounter casuarinas and camellias, palms, ferns and succulents. The air fills with natural sounds - frogs droning in ponds, a rooster crowing in the distance, butterflies fluttering among blossoms, and red kites soaring overhead. Floral aromas spice the warming air as we pass a napping cat and a traditional thatched Madeiran house, one of the garden's decorative features.
The garden was established in 1960 by Rui Vieira, a Funchal-born engineer, agronomist and politician honoured with a bust on the grounds. While not entirely idyllic - occasional traffic sounds from a highway bridge and tunnel below sometimes intrude - the overall atmosphere remains surprisingly calm and serene for one of Madeira's top attractions.
We soon discover why it feels relatively quiet and empty today: only one cruise ship occupies Funchal's port. Tomorrow, three large vessels will arrive, transforming the atmosphere completely.
Madeira Botanical Garden welcomes visitors daily except December 25th, operating from 9am to 6pm. Admission costs €10 (approximately $17.70) for visitors over twelve, €3 (about $5.30) for children aged six to twelve, and is free for those under six.
