When most people hear the word "arak" in connection with Bali, they immediately think of horror stories involving tourists becoming violently ill after drinking counterfeit versions of this traditional spirit. But one innovative distiller is determined to change that perception entirely, elevating arak to the same prestigious level as top-shelf whiskey, vodka, or gin.
The Arak Revolution Begins
Alisjahbana Haliman, the visionary behind the Karsuotju brand, has completely reimagined what arak can be. After years visiting renowned vineyards in world-famous wine regions like Napa and Bordeaux, he returned to Indonesia inspired to create something truly special using local traditions.
"We can't produce quality wine in Indonesia because the climate is too hot for wine grapes," Alisjahbana explained. "But we do have a long-standing tradition of making arak. That's how the concept for Karsuotju was born."
His approach combines international distillation techniques with local ingredients. Karsuotju is made from sweet potatoes using a "burned liquor" distillation process borrowed from Japanese shochu makers, then aged using French barrel-ageing methods typically reserved for premium spirits.
The Journey to Paradise
Karsuotju is produced in an artisanal boutique distillery nestled on the foothills of Mount Batukaru, Bali's second-highest peak. The distillery forms part of Talasi Estate, which includes a charming restaurant and cellar door where visitors can learn about and sample premium arak.
The journey from Canggu, Bali's popular west coast surf and hipster hub, takes approximately one hour by car or motorbike. The trip begins through urban sprawl before transforming into a breathtaking scenic route as you detour onto country roads snaking into the highlands of Tabanan regency.
The road winds through enchanting bamboo forests, past untouched rainforest, timeless villages, and emerald-green rice terraces that cascade across the landscape like the keys of a massive green piano. Talasi Estate sits at 750 metres above sea level, near the highest point of the road before it descends back toward the coast.
Tasting Bali's Liquid Gold
While behind-the-scenes distillery tours were temporarily paused due to renovations during my visit, and heavy rain had cancelled the estate's two-hour guided rainforest trek, the farm-to-table tasting experience remained available.
Karsuotju comes in two distinct varieties: Karu 18 (18% alcohol), which bears resemblance to Japanese sake, and Karu 38 (38% alcohol), which evokes the complex character of a whiskey and cognac blend. The tasting experience includes sampling both spirits alongside ten different varieties of honey.
Visitors can also enjoy cashew nuts coated in cinnamon treacle, a shot of Batukaru espresso, and hot chocolate made from 70% cacao – all produced on the slopes of Mount Batukaru. The culinary experience culminates with lunch in a stilted wood restaurant hidden among trees, featuring beautifully presented nasi campur (mixed rice) with satay sticks and beef bone and potato broths for under $10.
The drive to Batukaru alone, with its spectacular scenery and cool mountain climate, makes the journey worthwhile. The opportunity to taste reinvented arak and enjoy authentic Balinese cuisine simply adds to what becomes an unforgettable Balinese highland adventure.
