Forget everything you thought you knew about Indian bread. A new culinary star is rising in Canberra's north, promising to dethrone the ubiquitous naan. The contender? Kulcha, a flaky, layered, and often stuffed flatbread that is a Sunday ritual in parts of Punjab.
From Amritsar to Bruce: A Taste of Home
Navjot Singh, the owner of Krispy Kulcha & Sweets in Bruce, grew up with the scent of wood-fired tandoors and the sound of dough being hand-crushed. In his hometown of Amritsar, near the India-Pakistan border, visiting the local kulcha shop after temple was a cherished Sunday tradition for families.
"Kulcha is like an upgraded form of naan," Mr Singh explains. His casual eatery, which opened on Christmas Eve in 2025, has quickly become a hit, drawing long lines from the local Punjabi community on weekends.
The bread is made from plain wheat flour, fermented for two to three hours to develop layers, resulting in an exterior that's satisfyingly flaky and an interior that stays soft. It's typically stuffed with a spiced potato and onion filling.
The Secret is in the 28-Spice Mix
What sets Mr Singh's kulcha apart is his proprietary blend of spices. "I put 28 spices in it... it is my special mix," he reveals. "Cumin seeds and coriander seeds are essential. Every bite gives you a different taste."
The dish is served authentically with a mild chickpea curry and a tangy combination of tamarind water and onion salad. At Krispy Kulcha, the bread is a star alongside North Indian staples like butter chicken and lamb vindaloo.
A Journey from IT to the Tandoor
Mr Singh's path to becoming Canberra's kulcha king was unexpected. He initially pursued a career in IT in Sydney, but the COVID-19 pandemic cost him his internship and forced a rethink of his future in Australia.
He moved to Canberra to explore regional visa options, eventually securing residency. However, provisional visa conditions still blocked access to many government IT roles. Needing an income, he fell back on restaurant experience from his student days.
"Coming from a family with no business background, I was simply working to get by," Mr Singh said, long before envisioning his own kulcha-focused eatery.
Sweet Success and Community Spirit
The shop's success isn't limited to savoury bread. It also offers homemade kulfa, a multi-layered dessert described as an "Indo-Pakistani ice cream sundae." It features a rice pudding base, kulfi (a frozen milk dessert), thickened sweetened milk, cornstarch vermicelli, and rose-flavoured syrup.
Mr Singh speaks warmly of Canberra, contrasting it with larger cities. "Canberra, to be honest, people are so loving," he said. "They give you a chance. If you give them good food, they will appreciate you... that's the thing about Canberra, everything is about word of mouth."
He finds the local Punjabi community more tight-knit than in Sydney and takes pride in being recognised for bringing authentic flavours to the capital. His shop uses halal meat to ensure all customers feel welcome, reflecting what he describes as the respectful and expressive nature of Punjabi culture.
While a future aspiration might be to compete on MasterChef Australia, Mr Singh is keeping his feet on the ground. Borrowing from his IT past, he says he first needs to "upskill" his cooking and make his Bruce business the best version it can be. For now, Canberra's food lovers are the beneficiaries of his delicious detour.
