Discovering Hobart's Waterfront Charm
Few cities offer the serene pleasure of a leisurely stroll on a sunny late-summer afternoon quite like Hobart. Located just a three-hour and twenty-five-minute direct Qantas flight from Perth, this Tasmanian capital invites visitors to immerse themselves in its unique blend of history and natural beauty. My journey begins at the affordable and tidy Movenpick hotel on Elizabeth Street, nestled discreetly between Groovy Barbers Barbershop and Chemist Warehouse, with nightly rates starting from just over $200 in March.
A Walk to the Waterfront
For those eager to disconnect from digital maps and truly absorb their surroundings, a downhill walk through Hobart is highly recommended. This path inevitably leads to the city's most exciting feature: the bustling waterfront. Under a clear blue sky, with trees lush and green and water fountains dancing in Franklin Square, the atmosphere is one of relaxed contentment. Here, people lounge on verdant grass with paperback books, while others remain connected yet isolated in their phones. A white-streaked statue of Rear Admiral Sir John Franklin stands prominently, a figure whose legacy we will explore further.
Historic Ships and Maritime Adventures
The harbour is alive with maritime activity. The catamaran ferry Mona Roma arrives at Brooke Street Pier after a twenty-five-minute voyage from the eclectic Mona art gallery, located eleven kilometres up the Derwent River. Nearby, the Windeward Bound topsail schooner, modelled on an 1848 Boston schooner and built by volunteers in 1996 using recycled timber, offers three-hour sails with light lunches on weekends.
Further along, Elizabeth Street Pier hosts eateries like Billy's Burgers, while The Lady Nelson, a full-size replica of the brig that brought the first European settlers to Hobart in 1803, provides a unique three-day sail and walk experience for $790, inclusive of meals. The heritage-listed SV Rhonda H, Hobart's oldest operating tall ship built in 1942, sails most weekends from $60, crewed by volunteers from Heritage Sailing Tasmania.
Reflections on History and Heritage
Hobart's waterfront also serves as a poignant reminder of the city's complex past. At King's Pier, a plaque honours the one thousand Tasmanian volunteers who departed for Gallipoli in 1914, four hundred of whom never returned. Nearby, the Bernacchi Tribute sculptures celebrate Louis Bernacchi, the first Australian to winter in Antarctica, featuring bronze figures of Bernacchi with his husky Joe, surrounded by seals, penguins, and seabirds.
At Macquarie Wharf, dining options abound, from Fellini Italian Restaurant to The Black Footed Pig. Yet, the Footsteps sculptures by Pavan Cillespie offer a sobering memorial to the over thirteen thousand convict women transported to Van Diemen's Land between 1803 and 1853, along with two thousand children.
Modern Life and Culinary Delights
Working boats like the Climax and Clementine, laden with fishing gear, share the harbour with tourists in hire cars and Winnebagos. For a taste of local cuisine, Flippers floating seafood on Constitution Dock serves up golden, crispy fish and chips for $18.50, perfect for enjoying on a bench as the evening chill sets in.
The Legacy of Sir John Franklin
Rear-Admiral Sir John Franklin, Lt-Governor of Van Diemen's Land from 1837 to 1843, played a pivotal role in Tasmania's intellectual growth, founding the Tasmanian Natural History Society. However, he is most famously remembered for the ill-fated Franklin Expedition of 1845, which sought the Northwest Passage. Commanding HMS Terror and HMS Erebus, Franklin and all 129 crew members perished in what became the worst disaster in British polar exploration history.
The wrecks of the Erebus and Terror were discovered in 2014 and 2016, respectively, with the latter found in pristine condition in Terror Bay, Nunavut, guided by Inuit hunter Sammy Kogvik's 2010 sighting of a mast protruding from the ice. This discovery finally laid to rest one of history's greatest maritime mysteries, a story that underscores Hobart's deep connections to exploration and endurance.
From its historic ships and convict memorials to its vibrant dining scene and scenic walks, Hobart's waterfront offers a captivating journey through time, where every step reveals layers of Tasmania's rich heritage and natural beauty.
