Stepping into New Norcia feels like entering a living storybook. Founded in 1847 by Spanish Benedictine monks Rosendo Salvado and Jose Serra, this unique settlement on the banks of the Moore River is a tapestry woven from countless narratives. From the ancient heritage of the Noongar Yued people to the pioneering days of the Swan River Colony, its walls whisper tales waiting to be heard on a guided walking tour.
Behind Locked Doors: A Tour of Monastic Life
Arriving on a bright morning, we discovered we were the sole visitors booked for the daily guided walk—a fortunate surprise. While self-guided wandering is possible, the two-hour tour grants exclusive access behind normally locked doors. This includes the Abbey Church and the breathtakingly decorated chapels within the old boarding schools.
Before meeting our guide, a visit to the museum, housed in the former St Joseph’s School for Girls, set the scene. The exhibits—from 19th-century blacksmith tools to embroidered vestments—initially seem modest. Yet their stories captivate. An 1850 map reveals familiar WA landholders like Trigg and Roe. Displays honour Yued man William Monop, a multi-talented shearer, artist, and cricketer who "came in from the bush" in 1864.
The monks' original vision was to build a Christian, self-sufficient agricultural community alongside the Yued people. Under Abbot Salvado's leadership, it grew to around 250 residents, becoming a vital part of the colony. Salvado's unusual respect for Yued culture saw him learn the language and advocate for Aboriginal people—a complex legacy that forms a crucial part of New Norcia's story.
Angels, Architecture, and Award-Winning Cake
The tour proper begins at the monastery gates, crowned with the town's coat of arms and now home to nine monks. The Abbey Church, built between 1855 and 1860, is a fascinating blend of bush architecture and Mediterranean refinement. It houses Salvado's marble tomb and a German Moser organ from the 1920s. Look closely for the unique bush nativity scene, featuring a kookaburra and kangaroo overlooking the Holy Family.
A stop at the historic flour mill—where the renowned New Norcia nut cake is baked—precedes exploration of the stunning former boarding schools. St Gertrude’s College, opened in 1908, is a Gothic revival masterpiece with a chapel adorned with golden arches and trumpet-tooting angels. Its counterpart, St Ildephonsus’ College (1913), boasts a gingerbread exterior, Byzantine details, and a chapel with an intricate peach and sky-blue ceiling. These schools operated until 1991.
A Living History for All West Australians
The tour concludes at the education centre, where panels depict the six Noongar seasons and an exhibit details the nearby European Space Agency deep space station. This juxtaposition of ancient and modern feels fitting.
New Norcia’s history is multifaceted. It includes profoundly painful chapters, such as the historic abuse at its institutions—stories the community continues to grapple with presenting sensitively. There is also a recognised need for more first-hand Yued narratives.
Ultimately, New Norcia is part of the living history of all West Australians. Its triumphs, challenges, and layered stories are a shared cultural inheritance, inviting visitors to listen, learn, and carry its legacy forward.
Visiting New Norcia: Located 132km north of Perth (a 90-minute drive), it's an ideal day trip. Book the essential walking tour via newnorcia.com.au. Enjoy meals at the roadhouse cafe, stay at the historic hostel or caravan sites, and don't leave without the famous nut cake and award-winning olive oil.
