The historic whaling town of Eden on the New South Wales Sapphire Coast has welcomed its 200th cruise ship, marking a major tourism milestone two decades after the first vessel sailed into Twofold Bay. The arrival of the Celebrity Edge underscores a dramatic transformation for the town, where visitor numbers have surged tenfold since 2005, injecting tens of millions of dollars into the regional economy.
From Whaling Port to Welcoming Port of Call
Nestled about 220 nautical miles south of Sydney, Eden is a hamlet of roughly 3,350 residents. For a place once considered a candidate for the nation's capital due to its deepwater port, its modern identity is firmly tied to welcoming cruise passengers. John McKenna, Chief Executive of the Port Authority of NSW, hailed the community's drive, stating cruising has been a "lifeline" through tough times, supporting jobs across the Bega Valley shire.
Stepping off the ship, visitors find a compact, walkable town where volunteer 'red-shirt' guides eagerly offer assistance. The tourism cogs turn smoothly, even when a vessel like Celebrity Edge temporarily doubles the population. The main attractions, shops, and eateries like the famed Martins Pie Place are all within easy reach, creating a vibrant buzz without feeling overcrowded.
Exploring Eden's Layers of History and Art
A stroll from the wharf reveals Eden's multifaceted character. The Sculpture Eden installation offers intriguing artworks, including Anthony Millard's poignant R.I.P. tombstone marked with words like "Tolerance" and "Common Sense". History is etched into Imlay Street, with sites like the old Eden Courthouse (established in April 1847) and the former Bank of NSW building from 1903, now a physiotherapy practice.
The town's careful preservation is evident at the Hotel Australasia. Built in 1904 and once the 'grand old lady' of Eden, the derelict pub was saved from demolition by the council in 2016 and has since been refurbished into a luxury boutique hotel. Further layers of history unfold at the St Mary MacKillop Museum, housed in a restored timber hall. The museum commemorates Australia's first saint, who founded a school here in 1891 after her mother drowned in the SS Ly-ee-Moon shipwreck off Green Cape in 1886.
The Legend of Old Tom and the Killer Whale Museum
Perhaps Eden's most captivating story is that of Old Tom, the killer whale. This 6.7-metre orca was the leader of a pod that formed an extraordinary alliance with local whalers at the mainland's first whaling station, dating to 1828. The whales would herd baleen whales into Twofold Bay, 'flop-tailing' at the shore to signal the hunters. In return, they feasted on the lips and tongues of the catch—a practice known as the "law of the tongue".
Old Tom, a larrikin known for tugging on harpoon ropes, was mourned by the entire community when his body was found on September 17, 1930. His skeleton became the centrepiece of the Eden Killer Whale Museum, launched in 1939, which now preserves the town's unique whaling heritage. His story opens a window into a past where humans and apex predators worked in tandem.
Beyond history, Eden's natural beauty shines. The clifftop walk to Aslings Beach offers sweeping panoramas of the bay's two 'folds', Calle Calle and Nullica. While the annual humpback whale migration has passed by late December, the rugged coastline and rockpools ensure the Sapphire Coast lives up to its name. From a chance encounter with a large lizard to the serene garden of the Our Lady Star of the Sea Church, Eden proves that the more you look, the more you discover.
