Nestled in the geographic heart of Lombok's southern coastline, Kuta has firmly established itself as the island's premier resort town. Often mistaken for its famous Balinese namesake, this Kuta has undergone a remarkable transformation. Once a simple backpacker haven, it has evolved into a more sophisticated destination, a change accelerated by the opening of the Mandalika International Street Circuit in 2022.
The MotoGP Effect and Kuta's Allure
This circuit is the home of the Pertamina Grand Prix, Indonesia's round of the premier global motorcycle racing championship, MotoGP. When the event roars back into town on the second weekend of October this year, it is expected to draw a staggering 150,000 spectators. Unless you're part of the racing frenzy, it's wise to steer clear during this packed period. However, for the rest of the year, Kuta Lombok presents an ideal holiday spot: a vibrant party town boasting a wide array of restaurants and bars, coupled with a natural advantage over its Balinese counterpart – pristine white-sand beaches and brilliantly clear, swimmable water.
"Thirty years ago, the vibe in Bali's Kuta used to be just like it is here," observes Larbi Ahassad, a Moroccan expat who arrived on a surfing trip over a decade ago and decided to stay. "It's a very exciting place with perfect waves."
A Culinary Tour of Kuta's Best Eats
With an estimated 100-plus dining venues, Kuta's food scene is thriving. The epicentre of culinary action is the junction of Jalan Raya Kuta and Jalan Mawun, locally known as Kenza Square.
At Kenza, you'll find coffee that rivals Australian standards and an all-day breakfast menu featuring Bali staples like detox juices, acai bowls, and avocado toast. By evening, it transforms into a bustling bistro serving international fare from sushi to rib-eye steak, making it a prime spot for people-watching at any hour.
Next door, Pizza Shack offers a youthful, pirate-bar atmosphere with driftwood decor and communal tables. Their menu focuses on thin-crust Neapolitan-style pizzas, which manager Heru proudly explains are the result of meticulous effort. "It's a sourdough with 85 per cent hydration using two types of flour. The whole wheat is imported from Australia and the tomatoes we use are Mutti, the best brand in Italy," he says, noting the challenge of perfecting dough in a tropical climate.
For an authentic Indonesian fine-dining experience, head across the road to Pawon Nusantara. Housed in an ornate wooden interior reminiscent of a sultan's palace ballroom, it offers serious cuisine at bargain prices (entrees $5, mains $15). Their extensive menu, inspired by the legendary 1960s cookbook 'Mustikarasa', includes six types of satay, four rice varieties, and two rendangs—one braised for six hours, another for twelve.
On the opposite side of the junction, KRNK is a high-energy gastro-pub with an industrial vibe. A standout is their double smashed cheeseburger ($12), featuring a juicy patty with special sauce on a house-made potato bun—so good it needs no added tomato sauce.
El Bazar: A Kuta Institution with Global Flair
Consistently rated as the town's best restaurant, El Bazar is a must-visit. Its three distinct dining rooms evoke the south of France, Miami Beach, and Marrakesh. The globally inspired menu, featuring everything from grilled fish to Wagyu steak, is unified by its open-flame cooking and a Moroccan touch, courtesy of owner Larbi Ahassad.
"When I opened El Bazar, I had no experience cooking; I'd never even worked at a restaurant before," Ahassad admits. "All the recipes I used were childhood recipes my mum used to make. I just started copying them and became very good at it." Reservations are highly recommended for this culinary landmark.
From its world-class sporting events to its diverse and high-quality dining scene, Kuta Lombok has successfully carved out its own unique identity. It offers the excitement of a burgeoning resort town alongside natural beauty that rivals any tropical destination, making it a compelling alternative for travellers seeking something beyond the well-trodden path of Bali.
