From Nuremberg to Amsterdam: A River Voyage of Discovery
Imagine enjoying a summer dinner aboard a river cruise ship, the evening light suddenly vanishing into pitch blackness, only to reappear moments later. This was the surprising experience of one traveller aboard the APT Ostara in July, not during a solar eclipse, but as the ship navigated one of the 68 ingenious locks that facilitate travel along the 1811-kilometre stretch of river between Budapest and Amsterdam.
Beginning her seven-day Highlights of the Rhine and Main cruise in Nuremberg, Germany, the journey would see the vessel pass through 42 of these remarkable maritime engineering feats. While each lock passage brought a momentary wall of darkness, the scenery that unfolded in between was nothing short of spectacular. Verdant landscapes, hills blanketed with vineyards, and medieval towns crowned with castles provided a constantly evolving panorama.
Life on the Water and Bavarian Beginnings
The voyage offered a front-row seat to European life from the comfort of a spacious French balcony suite. With a floor-to-ceiling window lowered to balcony height, the calm waters of the river revealed a vibrant ecosystem. Flocks of Canada geese strutted along the banks, while ducks performed a synchronised dance, effortlessly surfing the gentle wake of the ship.
The initial part of the cruise traversed the state of Bavaria, a German tourism powerhouse. A local guide during the transfer from Munich Airport provided fascinating context, including the origin of the famous Bayern Munich football team's name. Bavaria recorded a staggering 41 million visitors last year, drawn not only to Munich but also to its country regions and alpine mountains. It is also home to the iconic Neuschwanstein Castle1.4 million visitors annually, with up to 6000 per day in peak summer.
Picturesque Ports and Signature Experiences
The beauty of the APT itinerary lies in its access to smaller, less crowded ports. The journey included stops at several captivating destinations:
Bamberg: This city, built on seven hills, is a visual feast with over 1300 heritage-listed buildings. Its architectural styles range from classic half-timbered houses to Romanesque and Gothic churches. The stunning Old Town Hall, perched on an island in the Regnitz River, is a particular highlight.
Wurzburg: Dominated by the spires of its approximately 60 churches, Wurzburg is also home to the magnificent Wurzburg Residence, one of Europe's most celebrated baroque palaces. Despite being gutted during World War II, it has been meticulously restored and features the world's largest ceiling fresco. Visitors can partake in the local tradition of Bruckenschoppen—sipping local wine on the Old Main Bridge.
Miltenberg: Dating to the 13th century, this town boasts one of Germany's best-preserved old town centres, with superb examples of half-timbered houses. Look for the historic Gasthaus zum Riesen, an inn first mentioned in records from the 1100s.
Rudesheim: Famous for its narrow, cobbled Drosselgasse lane, this town is a hub for wine and music. For panoramic views, the Seilbahn Rudesheim cable car, featured in Elvis Presley's film *G.I. Blues*, offers a ride over the vineyards.
Andernach: A special Signature Experience for APT guests is a visit to Namedy Castle, the home of Princess Heide von Hohenzollern. The visit includes a champagne reception, a piano recital, and personal stories from the princess about the castle's revival.
Arrival in Amsterdam and Beyond
The cruise concluded in Amsterdam, where passengers had a choice of excursions: a canal boat cruise, an e-bike ride, or a cheese tasting. With an overnight stay in the city, there was time to explore further. Pre-booking is essential for major attractions like the Anne Frank House and the Van Gogh Museum. For those with extra time, the charming cities of Haarlem or Delft are easily accessible by train from Amsterdam Centraal station, located just a 10-minute walk from the dock.
This immersive journey along the Rhine and Main rivers offers a unique perspective on the heart of Europe, blending natural beauty, rich history, and unparalleled comfort.
