We find ourselves once more in a Wagamama restaurant, but this is no ordinary location. This time, it's in Peterborough, situated on the River Nene at the western edge of the Fens, with the East Midlands hills looming tantalizingly close by. Clearly, this international chain outlet is not Peterborough's main draw, even if the katsu curry is commendable. Like nearby Ely, this Cambridgeshire cathedral city is primarily celebrated for its cathedral, which stands as one of the United Kingdom's finest examples of Norman architecture. However, Peterborough also earns praise for its extensive "Green Wheel" cycle network and the expansive Nene Park, among many other attractions.
A City of Contrasts and History
Unlike Ely, Peterborough features a city centre where original medieval buildings coexist with 1970s modernist architecture. It is more multicultural, diverse, industrial, and gritty, a sense that becomes apparent when parking on a street lined with Brutalist structures. Even the Wagamama is nestled in the almost-oasis of the hallowed Cathedral Square. This "New Town" boasts ancient roots, evidenced by nearby Flag Fen with its Bronze Age archaeology and a 3000-year-old wooden causeway. Peterborough's origins date back to the 7th century as Medeshamstede monastery, later rebuilt as a Benedictine abbey after Viking destruction. The Victorian era brought the railway, making Peterborough synonymous with brick-making.
Architectural and Cultural Highlights
Walking up to Peterborough Cathedral's West Front, with its three majestic Gothic arches unique in all of Europe, evokes memories of The Barchester Chronicles, the 1980s BBC adaptation of Anthony Trollope's novels set in fictional Barsetshire. The cathedral and its precincts served as primary filming locations for this witty series, starring Donald Pleasence, Nigel Hawthorne, and a youthful Alan Rickman as the odious Mr. Slope. Inside the cathedral, visitors first notice the splendid 13th-century wooden nave ceiling, one of only four surviving globally, and signage for an upcoming concert by a Pink Floyd tribute band. A bar is even being set up in the south transept for the event, showcasing novel fundraising efforts essential for maintaining such architectural splendour.
Historical Treasures and Modern Vibrancy
More edifying aspects include the spectacular fan vaulting by King's College Chapel architect John Wastell from the 16th-century expansion behind the high altar, and the tomb of Henry VIII's first wife, Katherine of Aragon, where someone has left a basket of fruit as tribute. Mary, Queen of Scots was originally buried here before her remains were moved to Westminster Abbey. As we depart for our next stop, Burghley House, we lament not having time for other experiences, such as the Nene Valley Railway, frequently used in Hollywood films, and the Peterborough Museum, which features Napoleonic prisoner-of-war bone carvings alongside Jurassic fossils.
Peterborough offers a rich tapestry of history, culture, and modern life, making it a compelling destination for travellers seeking depth beyond the ordinary.
