From the vibrant port city of Marseille to the historic streets of Arles, Provence offers a wealth of contemporary art experiences this summer. My wife and I moved from London to Marseille five years ago, drawn by the affordable living and stunning Mediterranean backdrop. The region's clear blue skies and topaz sea have long inspired artists, as painter Fanny Nushka noted on a recent terrace chat: 'It took a long time to go back to blue. It's dangerous to paint the Calanques as an artist from here.'
Marseille: A Dynamic Art Hub
Marseille's art scene has flourished since its 2013 European Capital of Culture year. Major institutions like Mucem, Frac Sud, and Mac now host larger exhibitions. This summer, Mucem presents 'Bonnes Mères' on motherhood and Clément Cogitore's 'Ferdinandea, l'île éphémère' about a volcanic island. At La Friche La Belle de Mai, a former tobacco factory turned arts centre, the Art-O-Rama fair takes place in late August. La Friche buzzes with activity, featuring rooftop movies and food trucks. For a taste of Mediterranean luxury, Benoît Bouchet runs daily catered cruises on Le Don du Vent, offering swimming and snorkeling in secluded coves for €135.
Aix-en-Provence: Conservative Charm with Contemporary Flair
Just 40 minutes from Marseille, Aix-en-Provence feels like a different world. Its daily market at Place Richelme is perfect for a coffee at Maison Weibel. For lunch, try Drôle d'Endroit or Tita for Levantine street food. Aix boasts museums like Granet, Caumont, and the Vasarely Foundation, but they often focus on established artists. Gallifet, a contemporary art centre in an 18th-century townhouse, breaks the mold. This summer, it features a retrospective of photographer François Halard with over 100 works spanning three decades. The courtyard's striking red swimmer sculpture by Diadji Diop sets the tone. Gallifet also hosts a seasonal restaurant with menus by Parisian chefs Lisa Desforges and Bruno Hammerle, featuring dishes like smoked ricotta gnocchi. Two apartments are available from €160 per night.
Avignon: Medieval Walls and Modern Art
Further north, Avignon nestles against the Rhône River, enclosed by medieval walls. The Palais des Papes overlooks vineyards and lavender fields. Each July, the Avignon festival takes over the town. For dining, L'Épicerie on Rue Peyrolerie serves classic French cuisine in generous portions, though the terrace fills quickly. Numéro 75 is another safe bet for courtyard dining. The Lambert Collection, housed in two 18th-century townhouses, showcases contemporary art. Its 'Antechamber of Summer' exhibition this year features Iranian artist Melika Sadeghzadeh.
Arles: Roman History and Photography
South of Avignon, Arles centers on a 2,000-year-old Roman amphitheater. The Vincent van Gogh Foundation and Luma host exhibitions year-round, but July's Rencontres d'Arles photography festival is a highlight. Recently, we visited for the Festival of Drawing, exploring the Roquette district and dining at Páou on Place Paul Doumer, which offers sharing plates with local produce. The clear blue sky and terrace dining made for a perfect end to our art trail.
