Nestled in the north of Spain's Basque Country, where the River Urumea meets the Bay of Biscay, lies San Sebastian. This city, known locally as Donostia, stands as a peerless European destination, captivating visitors with its breathtaking natural scenery, world-class cuisine, and vibrant cultural pulse.
A Coastal Setting of Unmatched Beauty
The city's natural beauty is its first and most powerful seduction. A stunning fusion of verdant green hills, golden sand beaches, and clear blue waters provides a picture-perfect backdrop for any holiday. While West Australians are no strangers to superb coastlines, San Sebastian boasts some of the finest city beaches on the planet.
The crown jewel is Playa de la Concha (Shell Beach), a soft, curving strip of sand with calm, sheltered waters located just a stone's throw from the bustling city centre. It's a magnet for sunbathers, swimmers, and paddleboarders alike. During the busy summer months from July to September, if Concha and its neighbour, Playa de Ondarreta, become too crowded, locals and savvy travellers head to Zurriola Beach on the other side of the river.
This expansive sandy haven is also a renowned surf spot, with the biggest and best waves rolling in between October and April.
A Gourmet Paradise for Every Palate
San Sebastian is a true heaven for food lovers. No matter your budget or dietary preferences, the city offers an incredible array of flavours to savour. For those seeking the pinnacle of fine dining, it's said that San Sebastian has more Michelin stars per capita than any other city on the continent.
An impressive 18 stars are scattered across an area of fewer than 200,000 people. The city centre is sprinkled with one and two-star establishments, while two legendary three-star restaurants, Arzak and Akelarre, are just a short taxi ride away.
Yet, the heart of the city's food scene beats in its bars. The real magic for many lies in the pintxos crawl through the narrow, pedestrianised lanes of the Parte Vieja (Old Town). These tapas-style snacks are a way of life.
You'll find counters piled high with small, skewered delights on baguette pieces, featuring ingredients like ham, cheese, sardines, or octopus, typically priced between €2.50 and €4. Most bars also excel in larger, cooked-to-order pintxos, such as wild mushroom risotto or a succulent txuleton (T-bone steak).
Wash it all down with the local tipple, txakoli, a crisp, slightly sparkling white wine, or a rich red from the nearby Rioja region, whose wineries make for a fantastic day trip.
Culture and Rainy Day Delights
When the weather turns—which is not uncommon in this lush, green corner of Spain—the city offers ample indoor entertainment beyond its famous bars and restaurants. In the Old Town, the San Telmo Museum offers a deep dive into Basque history, art, and culture within a stunning complex that blends a modern extension with a 16th-century convent.
For performing arts, the elegant Teatro Victoria Eugenia hosts dance, drama, and opera, and serves as a key venue for the annual San Sebastian International Film Festival in September. Another architectural marvel and festival hub is the Kursaal, a striking beachfront events space designed by renowned Spanish architect Rafael Moneo.
For a more contemporary vibe, the Tabakalera, a multi-purpose arts centre housed in a former tobacco factory, offers everything from cutting-edge exhibitions to a stylish and well-priced hotel, One Shot, with rooms from around $200 per night. This centre is conveniently located near the main transport interchange, connecting you to the rest of Spain and beyond.
While Barcelona or Madrid are a five-to-six-hour journey, the French seaside city of Biarritz is just over an hour away. So too is Bilbao, the Basque Country's largest city, home to its own airport and a thriving pintxos scene, making it a perfect addition to any Spanish itinerary.
