Paddling Through Paradise: Raja Ampat's Kayaking Secrets
Nestled off the north-west tip of New Guinea in Indonesia's far east, Raja Ampat is an archipelago of hundreds of uninhabited islands that redefines natural beauty. With its breathtaking landscapes, it makes destinations like the Maldives seem ordinary by comparison. But the true magic lies beneath the surface: Raja Ampat boasts the planet's richest marine diversity, home to three-quarters of all known coral species—537 and counting—along with 1320 species of fish, sharks, rays, whales, sea cows, and five species of sea turtle. Adding to its allure, some islands feature saltwater lakes where unique, stingless jellyfish swim, having evolved without predators.
Beyond the Diving Crowds: A Kayaker's Escape
While most tourists flock to Waigeo Island for scuba diving, one innovative tour operator is charting a different course. Millekul Adventures offers guided multi-day kayak tours that steer clear of the crowds, focusing instead on Misool, the largest and most remote of Raja Ampat's four main islands. "Misool has it all: incredible coral reefs, amazing karst formations in a protected island chain with labyrinths, caves, ancient rock art, peak hikes and over half of the world's jellyfish lakes, many of which only kayakers can access," says Nicklas Millegard, the Swedish co-founder.
Millekul synchronizes its five and 12-day tours with the overnight ferry schedule from Sorong, a city in West Papua Province with flights to Bali. A recent 12-day expedition revealed why Misool stands out. Compared to Phang Nga Bay in Thailand, which has 40 limestone karsts, Misool boasts thousands. Where Phang Nga has three hidden lagoons, Misool offers hundreds, with mirror-flat waters shifting from emerald green to turquoise, edged by pristine beaches.
An Unforgettable Journey: From Islands to Jungles
The first half of the tour involved hopping between islands and islets around Misool, with nights spent at Robinson Crusoe-style campsites or simple overwater bungalows. The second half ventured downriver into Misool's lush interior, where the jungle thickened with exotic flora and the calls of New Guinea's bird of paradise. Kayakers explored flooded caves with cathedral-high ceilings and viewed 4000-year-old handprints and X-ray art by ancient Papuans, echoing Australian Aboriginal traditions. The highlight was swimming with stingless jellyfish, alien-like creatures that pulse harmlessly through the water.
Accessibility and Exclusivity: What Travelers Say
After the tour, feedback from a Perth family highlighted its appeal. Jeanette Hardisty, a mother of two, noted, "We're not very skilled, but we had a kayak on our boat. We were on the water eight hours a day, but only about half of that was spent kayaking. The duration may be a challenge if you've never kayaked before, but basically, anyone in good health can do it." She added that while the tours aren't cheap—priced at $1510 for five days and $3830 for 12 days—they offer unparalleled beauty and exclusivity, with no other boats or tourists in sight.
Her husband Tony emphasized, "And it's far more spectacular than Thailand or anywhere we've been in Asia before. The Kimberley is the only place I know of that's on par with Misool. That's how spectacular it is." Millekul Adventures operates from October to May, providing a unique way to experience Raja Ampat's wonders beyond the typical diving routes.
