Grace Dent visits Kawan, a modern Indonesian restaurant in London W1, and finds a mixed experience of vibrant flavors, hit-or-miss execution, and steep prices.
First impressions of Kawan
Kawan, which means 'friend' in Indonesian, sits on a quiet Marylebone street. The interior is sleek with rattan accents, warm lighting, and an open kitchen. The menu, created by chef Lara Lee, aims to introduce Indonesian cuisine to a London audience with dishes like beef rendang, nasi goreng, and sambal-infused small plates.
The food: highs and lows
Dent praises the 'sambal matah' – a raw sambal with shallots, lemongrass, and lime – as 'a punch of freshness.' The 'ayam betutu,' a Balinese spiced chicken, is 'tender and aromatic.' However, the 'ikan bakar' (grilled fish) arrives dry, and the 'gado-gado' salad lacks the expected peanut sauce depth. 'At £12 for a small plate of tempeh, you expect perfection,' she notes.
Service and atmosphere
The service is friendly but rushed, with dishes arriving at odd intervals. The noise level rises quickly, making conversation difficult. 'It's a place for a lively night out, not a quiet dinner,' Dent observes.
The verdict
Dent concludes: 'Kawan has ambition and some excellent dishes, but consistency is an issue. For the price, I'd expect fewer misses. It's a welcome addition to London's Indonesian scene, but it hasn't yet mastered its craft.'
