Da Maria Bali Reborn: A Fresh Chapter for a Seminyak Icon
Launched in 2016 by celebrity Australian restaurateur Maurice Terzini, renowned for Sydney's Icebergs, Da Maria Bali made history as the first Italian restaurant on the island to serve authentic Neapolitan-style pizzas. These pizzas, featuring light, airy, and semi-burnt crusts, quickly set a high standard, rivaling the best found in Australia.
From Nightclub Hub to Culinary Revival
For many, Da Maria became synonymous with Bali's vibrant nightlife, especially as a Sunday night hotspot. It evolved into a supper club and discotheque, famously launching the sounds of Balinese music collective PNNY and hosting unforgettable events, like the star-studded New Year's Day party in 2017 that drew the island's elite and Australia's jetsetter crowd.
However, over time, Da Maria's allure faded as newer venues like Sardine Restaurant's K Club and Les Toilettes emerged. By recent visits, the dance floor often emptied by midnight. Yet, in Bali's competitive dining scene, where only an estimated 5 percent of new food and beverage venues survive long-term, Da Maria's continued operation is a testament to its resilience.
The Secrets to Longevity and a Menu Transformation
According to insiders, Da Maria's endurance stems from professional management, efficient Western-style service, and consistently excellent food. Signature dishes like house-made pappardelle with braised beef shin ragu and the oversized chicken cotoletta have long been favorites for indulgent meals.
Now, management has introduced a new menu that, as head chef Lorenzo De Petris explains, "leans more into Mediterranean, not just Italian." This shift includes an innovative martini trolley service, where bartenders prepare custom dry or tropical martinis at your table, using spirits infused with ingredients like lemon peel, citrus blossom, rosemary, thyme, sage, oyster shells, or sea grapes.
A Visit to the Revamped Da Maria
On a recent visit, the massive 200-seat venue, with its playful blue-and-white geometric design and central water fountain, evoked a 1960s Amalfi Coast vibe. To navigate the extensive new menu of around 100 options, a reviewer opted for a chef's selection, requesting lamb skewers with rosemary and lemon while avoiding beef tartare.
The lamb skewers were excellent, but the standout was the half chicken diavola with cayenne, tangerine, and rouille—described as the Rolls-Royce of roast chicken for its smooth, silky, and moist texture. Though the cooking method involved a 24-hour marinade and baking, it remains a dish best enjoyed on-site rather than replicated at home.
While the martini trolley was skipped, a tiramisu trolley stole the show. Da Maria's version features a chocolate-soaked tiramisu with crunchy bits and a dusting of chocolate powder, offering a delightful twist on the classic dessert.
Final Verdict and Future Prospects
In a Bali dining scene where most meals are delicious, Da Maria's new menu impresses with its Mediterranean flair and creative offerings. While it's uncertain if this revival will secure another decade of profitability, for now, it earns a five-star rating from this reviewer. Da Maria proves that with innovation and quality, even iconic venues can find new life.
Dave Smith was a guest of Da Maria. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication.
